DARK GREY SKIES shedded unsympathic drizzle as I waved goodbye to Solveig from the deck of the Hurtigruten ferry. She cut a lonely figure; the only one seeing someone off from the Hammerfest quay on a miserable July day. Geggen and she couldn’t have made my visit to their hometown more agreeable. After inviting me […]
Tag Archives: Hammerfest
TO THE CASUAL OBSERVER, it might seem all Norwegians, north of the Arctic Circle, spend entire weekends drinking. Having spent some months in the region I can assure them it’s not all, just the vast majority. Friday night and the Kaikanten. where Gerner Planting’s grandson had dropped me, started filling up early. A hen party […]
DESCRIBING HAMMERFEST as the loneliest town on the planet, in Neither here nor There, Bill Bryson writes he spent most of his time holed up in a hotel room reading books. He was waiting for the clouds to clear so he could see the Northen Lights. Though few know it, you can sometimes see the […]
FROM THE VERY first moment I rose nervously to stand on my own two feet, solely to show my father my chubby little legs were capable of tottering across the living room carpet and into the safe haven of my mother’s beckoning arms a couple of steps away, I began planning the long journey to Hammerfest in […]
Pedersen's Last Dream 