The best hostel in the world – part one

BEFORE WE START, the one hostel, B&B, pension, whatever you want to call it, in the world, definitely worth avoiding at all costs, is at windswept Ezurum in the far northeast corner of Anatolia. Or used to be. Once you were there, it wasn’t hard to locate. You just asked your helpful bus driver where […]

From Hammerfest to the Lofoten Isles by sea

DARK GREY SKIES shedded unsympathic drizzle as I waved goodbye to Solveig from the deck of the Hurtigruten ferry. She cut a lonely figure; the only one seeing someone off from the Hammerfest quay on a miserable July day. Geggen and she couldn’t have made my visit to their hometown more agreeable. After inviting me […]

Solveig, Geggen and Crazy Horse

TO THE CASUAL OBSERVER, it might seem all Norwegians, north of the Arctic Circle, spend entire weekends drinking. Having spent some months in the region I can assure them it’s not all, just the vast majority. Friday night and the Kaikanten. where Gerner Planting’s grandson had dropped me, started filling up early. A hen party […]